You’re standing at your electric stove, ready to cook dinner, and notice something frustrating: the burner light is glowing, but there’s no heat coming from the element. This issue means your stove is getting power (hence the indicator light), but something is preventing the heating element from actually warming up.
Step-by-Step Fixes
Step 1: Test a Different Burner
Switch your pot or pan to another burner on your stove. Turn it on and wait about 30 seconds. If other burners work fine, you’ve confirmed the problem is isolated to that specific element. This quick test helps you determine whether you’re dealing with a single burner issue or a larger electrical problem.
Step 2: Power Cycle Your Stove
Turn off the problematic burner completely. Head to your circuit breaker panel and flip the breaker for your stove to the OFF position. Wait 60 seconds, then flip it back ON. Return to your stove and test the burner again. This reset can sometimes clear minor electrical glitches that prevent proper heating.
Step 3: Check the Burner Connection
Once the stove has cooled completely, gently lift the heating element upward (most electric coil burners lift like a car hood). Look at where it plugs into the receptacle. You might see corrosion, burnt spots, or loose connections. Unplug the element by pulling it straight out, then firmly push it back in until it’s fully seated.
Step 4: Swap Burners for Testing
If you have identical-sized burners on your stove, try swapping the non-working element with a working one. Unplug both when cool, then exchange their positions. If the problem follows the burner to its new location, you’ve found your culprit. If the problem stays in the same spot, the issue is with the receptacle or wiring.
Step 5: Inspect the Infinite Switch
The control knob you turn connects to an internal component called an infinite switch. Turn the problematic burner’s knob through all heat settings slowly. Listen for clicking sounds and feel for resistance changes. A faulty infinite switch often feels loose or doesn’t click properly between settings.
Step 6: Clean All Connection Points
With the stove unplugged or breaker off, use fine-grit sandpaper or steel wool to gently clean the burner’s plug prongs and the receptacle terminals. Built-up grease and oxidation can prevent proper electrical flow. After cleaning, apply a thin layer of dielectric grease (available at hardware stores) to prevent future corrosion.
Likely Causes
Cause #1: Burned Out Heating Element
The heating coil itself has reached the end of its lifespan. Elements typically last 5-10 years with regular use. You can check for visible damage like blistering, cracking, or areas where the coil appears warped or separated.
To verify this cause, examine the burner closely when cool. Run your hand along its length feeling for rough spots or breaks. Use a multimeter set to resistance (ohms) to test continuity – a working element shows 10-50 ohms resistance, while a dead one shows infinite resistance.
The fix is straightforward: purchase a replacement element matching your stove’s make and model. Most cost between $20-50 in 2025 and install in minutes without tools.
Cause #2: Faulty Burner Receptacle
The socket where your burner plugs in has failed internally. These receptacles endure extreme heat cycles and can develop loose connections or burnt contacts over time. Signs include visible burn marks around the socket or a burnt smell when the burner attempts to heat.
Check by looking into the receptacle with a flashlight. The metal contacts should appear clean and springy. If they look blackened or don’t grip the burner prongs firmly, replacement is needed. This repair requires basic electrical knowledge and costs about $15-30 for parts.
Cause #3: Failed Infinite Switch
The control switch behind your burner knob has malfunctioned. These switches regulate power flow to create different heat levels. When they fail, they might send enough power to illuminate the indicator light but not enough to heat the element.
Test by turning the knob while listening carefully. A working switch produces subtle clicking as you rotate through heat settings. A failed switch might spin freely or feel stuck. Replacement switches run $40-80 and require removing the stove’s back panel for installation.
When to Call Expert Help
Contact a professional appliance repair service when you notice any of these warning signs: burning smells that persist after cleaning, visible wire damage behind the stove, multiple burners failing simultaneously, or if your stove trips the circuit breaker repeatedly. Professional diagnosis typically costs $75-150 but prevents dangerous electrical situations.
Also seek expert help if your stove is under warranty or if you’re uncomfortable working with 240-volt electrical connections. Modern stoves from brands like GE, Whirlpool, or Samsung often have complex electronic controls best serviced by certified technicians.
Copy-Paste Prompt for AI Help
“My electric stove burner indicator light turns on but the heating element doesn’t get hot. I have a [insert your stove brand and model]. I’ve already tried [list what you’ve attempted]. The burner that’s not working is the [front left/front right/back left/back right] position. Other burners [do/don’t] work properly. What specific troubleshooting steps should I try next, and what replacement parts might I need?”
Remember, a burner showing light but producing no heat is usually fixable with basic troubleshooting. Most solutions involve simple cleaning or affordable part replacement. Take your time working through these steps, and you’ll likely have your stove working again without an expensive service call.