That rapid clicking sound from your pressure switch means your well pump is cycling on and off repeatedly, which can damage your pump motor and leave you without water. This problem needs immediate attention to prevent costly repairs and restore normal water flow to your home.
Step-by-Step Fixes
Step 1: Check Your Pressure Tank First
Turn off power to your well pump at the circuit breaker. Locate your pressure tank (usually a large blue or gray tank near your pressure switch) and tap on it with your knuckles. The top half should sound hollow while the bottom should sound solid. If the entire tank sounds like a watermelon or feels heavy, your tank has lost its air charge.
To add air, find the Schrader valve on top of the tank (looks like a tire valve). Use a tire pressure gauge to check the pressure. It should read 2 PSI below your pressure switch cut-in setting. For a 30/50 switch, set it to 28 PSI. For a 40/60 switch, use 38 PSI.
Step 2: Inspect Water Flow and Pressure
With the power still off, open a nearby faucet to release system pressure. Watch the pressure gauge on your tank as water flows out. If pressure drops to zero almost instantly, you have a waterlogged tank or major leak. Normal pressure should decrease gradually over 30-60 seconds.
Step 3: Clean the Pressure Switch Contacts
Remove the plastic or metal cover from your pressure switch (usually a small gray box near the tank). Inside you’ll see electrical contacts that may look burned or pitted. Turn off power at the main panel first, then use fine sandpaper or an emery board to gently clean these contacts. Blow out any debris with compressed air.
Step 4: Adjust the Pressure Switch Settings
Your Square D, Schneider Electric, or similar pressure switch has two adjustment nuts. The larger nut controls the cut-in pressure (when pump starts). The smaller nut adjusts the differential (gap between cut-in and cut-out). Turn the large nut clockwise to increase cut-in pressure by 2-3 PSI. This adjustment is ideal for minor rapid cycling issues.
Step 5: Check for Hidden Leaks
Walk through your home checking all toilets, faucets, and water-using appliances. A running toilet or dripping faucet creates constant demand, causing rapid cycling. Check your water heater’s pressure relief valve too. Look for wet spots in your yard that might indicate underground leaks.
Step 6: Test the Check Valve
Listen carefully when your pump shuts off. If you hear water rushing backward down the well, your check valve has failed. This valve prevents water from draining back into the well. A failed check valve is best diagnosed by watching the pressure gauge drop rapidly after pump shutdown.
Likely Causes
Cause #1: Waterlogged Pressure Tank
Modern pressure tanks use a rubber bladder to separate air from water. When this bladder ruptures or loses air pressure, water fills the entire tank. Without an air cushion, your pump turns on and off with every minor water use. Check for this by pressing the air valve on top – if water comes out instead of air, the bladder has failed. The only fix involves replacing the entire pressure tank, which costs between $200-500 in 2025.
Cause #2: Faulty Pressure Switch
Pressure switches contain spring-loaded electrical contacts that wear out after 5-10 years. Corrosion, mineral deposits, or burned contacts prevent proper operation. You’ll notice erratic clicking, failure to shut off, or failure to start. Test by manually operating the lever on the switch while someone watches the pressure gauge. If pressure readings don’t match switch operation, replacement is needed. New switches cost $25-50 and are not recommended when you lack electrical experience.
Cause #3: System Leak or High Water Demand
Even small leaks cause pressure drops that trigger rapid cycling. Common culprits include toilet flappers, irrigation systems, and cracked pipes. Calculate your leak rate by turning off all water use and watching your water meter. Any movement indicates a leak. Underground leaks often appear as soggy spots in your yard or unexplained increases in your water bill.
When to Call Expert Help
Contact a licensed well pump technician immediately if you notice electrical burning smells, see sparks, or hear grinding noises from your pump. These symptoms indicate motor failure or electrical hazards beyond DIY repair. Professional help is essential when your pressure tank needs replacement, as improper installation can cause water hammer or premature pump failure.
Call for help if rapid cycling continues after trying these fixes. Persistent problems often indicate deep well issues like a dropping water table, pump placement problems, or worn pump components. Well professionals have specialized equipment to diagnose issues inside your well casing.
Copy-Paste Prompt for AI Help
“My well pump pressure switch is clicking on and off rapidly every few seconds. I have a [your tank size] gallon pressure tank and a [30/50 or 40/60] pressure switch. The problem started [when]. I’ve checked the tank pressure and it reads [X] PSI. When I run water, the pressure gauge [describe what happens]. What specific troubleshooting steps should I try for my exact situation?”